Of the ten days I was back in Chattanooga, I was able to spend five out on the rock, clocking almost fifty pitches of stellar Southern Sandstone. When I lived in Tennessee, I was a relatively new climber and cut my teeth on the myriad of 5.7-5.9 dihedrals at the crag (with one 5.10- that I was quite proud of at the time). But this time, I came back as a much stronger climber; and was finally able to take a full measure of the many 5.10 classics at the wall.
Since moving out west, I've always looked back fondly on the Tennessee Wall, but questioned whether or not this fondness was the result of nostalgia or the actual quality of the climbing. However, after this most recent trip, I can confidently say that the quality is 100% real and in no way inflated by my own fond memories. The 5.10's especially have a consistent style that is unparalleled in its variety and uniqueness.
Here's what I mean: without exception, a T-Wall 5.10 is going to include the following:
- A tricky boulder problem at the start
- A mind-bogglingly large roof with HUGE, jungle gym style jugs
- An incredibly fun, if deceptively challenging splitter crack
- A technical, balancy and somewhat run-out face
For those of ya'll pondering a trip to see if the aforementioned mind-blowing crag truly exists, here is a list of the ten coolest 5.10's that I climbed on my trip back that I think are worth your time.
1. Finger Lockin' Good
This route is to SE finger cracks what Champy's Chicken is to KFC. In other words, it's the real deal, with bomber finger locks and tricky footwork. Unfortunately, the finger crack ends all too soon, but don't worry, it TR's easily and you can come back for seconds!
This route is to SE finger cracks what Champy's Chicken is to KFC. In other words, it's the real deal, with bomber finger locks and tricky footwork. Unfortunately, the finger crack ends all too soon, but don't worry, it TR's easily and you can come back for seconds!
2. Margin of Profit
A bit spicy, but not to a deadly degree, starts with a thin crack then traverses right onto a beautiful arete with the best views of the Tennessee River Valley that you can find at the T-Wall. A must do for those confident at the grade.
3. Corner Pockets
Don't let the route's short length (40 ft) dissuade you from getting on this classic crack line. But don't get so focussed on the crack that you miss the face holds that unlock the tricky mid-point crux.
4. Fill in the Blanks
Easy to miss, as it sits right in the middle of two classic routes (Digital Macabre and Razor Worm), but missing out on this techy face climb would be a real shame. The highlight of this line is the crux about 3/4 of the way up when you have to stand straight up on a left foot smear with no handholds to use for balance.
5. Hidden Assets
A fairly easy 5.10 by T-Wall standards, interesting climbing out around a roof leads to an ever steepening crack with a stemming crux up to the chains.
6. Blood on the Rocks
A unique T-Wall route with its two distinct cruxes, but the lower crux (about midway up the climb) is the harder of the two, but don't sleep on the upper roof that blocks your path to the chains, it's steep, juggy and will make you pay if you come to it pumped out.
7. Crackattack
A fairly mellow, low-angled crack starts you off and tries to lull you into a false sense of security before the crux hits with a committing, awkward lie-back that gives way to a grunt-fest chimney up to the chains. Stout for the 10- grade, but it eats gear and is a must do, even for those who are not exceptionally confident on T-Wall 5.10's
8. Golden Gloves
A route with cracks so splitter, that you'll be tempted to get tunnel-vision into them and miss out on the crucial foot-hold that makes the crux go at 5.10.
9. Electric Rats
This route comes at you from the start with a MASSIVE overhang. Fortunately, you get some equally massive jugs to pull through the roof on. After that, you get to feast on one of the most enjoyable and puzzling hand crackthat you'll find at T-Wall.
10. Day's Work
Looks deceptively easy from the ground. A burly boulder problem at the start soon gives way to a sustained thin-hands crack in a flare. Any veteran of Vedauwoo will feel right at home on this classic.
A bit spicy, but not to a deadly degree, starts with a thin crack then traverses right onto a beautiful arete with the best views of the Tennessee River Valley that you can find at the T-Wall. A must do for those confident at the grade.
3. Corner Pockets
Don't let the route's short length (40 ft) dissuade you from getting on this classic crack line. But don't get so focussed on the crack that you miss the face holds that unlock the tricky mid-point crux.
4. Fill in the Blanks
Easy to miss, as it sits right in the middle of two classic routes (Digital Macabre and Razor Worm), but missing out on this techy face climb would be a real shame. The highlight of this line is the crux about 3/4 of the way up when you have to stand straight up on a left foot smear with no handholds to use for balance.
5. Hidden Assets
A fairly easy 5.10 by T-Wall standards, interesting climbing out around a roof leads to an ever steepening crack with a stemming crux up to the chains.
6. Blood on the Rocks
A unique T-Wall route with its two distinct cruxes, but the lower crux (about midway up the climb) is the harder of the two, but don't sleep on the upper roof that blocks your path to the chains, it's steep, juggy and will make you pay if you come to it pumped out.
7. Crackattack
A fairly mellow, low-angled crack starts you off and tries to lull you into a false sense of security before the crux hits with a committing, awkward lie-back that gives way to a grunt-fest chimney up to the chains. Stout for the 10- grade, but it eats gear and is a must do, even for those who are not exceptionally confident on T-Wall 5.10's
8. Golden Gloves
A route with cracks so splitter, that you'll be tempted to get tunnel-vision into them and miss out on the crucial foot-hold that makes the crux go at 5.10.
This route comes at you from the start with a MASSIVE overhang. Fortunately, you get some equally massive jugs to pull through the roof on. After that, you get to feast on one of the most enjoyable and puzzling hand crackthat you'll find at T-Wall.
10. Day's Work
Looks deceptively easy from the ground. A burly boulder problem at the start soon gives way to a sustained thin-hands crack in a flare. Any veteran of Vedauwoo will feel right at home on this classic.
